New Project – Part 3 – Now Play The Damn Game

Miniatures, Terrain and Buildings, World War II

Played a quick scenario this afternoon.

M36 Jackson, a 75mm Sherman and a 76mm Sherman took on a PZ V Panther.  Panther was in a treeline, with the three US tanks behind bocage.  It’s a mismatch, but added an elite commander, gunner and loader to the Panther’s crew.  No additions for the US.

Decided that moving through the bocage would take one move, but without a movement modifier  reducing  the chance of a Panther to-hit die roll.

The  M36 would provide a base of fire, with the  76 mm Shermans maneuvering to engage the Panther from the front, with the 75mm Sherman trying to outflank it.

Battlefield Before I Decided To Add Another Marsh
Final Initial Set-Up….With Additional Marsh To Channelize US Attack

Well, it didn’t take long.  The M36 put three hits on the Panther in Turn 2, and in Turn 3, the 76mm Sherman put another three hits on the Pz V.  Take a look at these rolls….hits on 4-6, with a 6 being a critical hit.  Defense has to roll 4-6 to take off a hit.  Blammo!

75mm Sherman Takes a Hit But Keeps Moving
76mm Sherman Crushes The Panther
That’s It……..Add 3 More Hits and It’s Over!

Quick game, and an unexpected outcome.  Will try it again and see what happens.

Next project up, the buildings.  Oh yes, that was a complete bone-head move.  Spent the extra money to have laser print copies made – as per instructions’ recommendation.  Forgot to reduce them to 50 percent for 15mm.  Files are for 28-30mm.  Doh!

New Project – Pt 2

Miniatures, Terrain and Buildings, World War II

Had another flash of insight while painting the battle mats.  Maybe it was the olfactory stimulus from the spray cans.

Was getting ready to start cutting up card for terrain bases when I realized……why not use beer mats?  They are thin, come in a variety of sizes and are a good match for 15mm vehicles.  Fantastic!  One of the things we have plenty of here at The Lodge is beer mats.

The next step was to go out to the shed and dig out the old foam and nail trees made decades ago, having accompanied me during countless moves, just for this day.  The scrounged foam had been cut, glue sprayed and rolled in green flock.  The painted nails made excellent trunks.

When I opened the box I also found – ready to go with minimal work – rows of bocage just right for Normandy scenarios.  Yes!

I painted the beer mats using the same techniques/colors as the battle mats.   The Panther tank served as  a template for placing trees and shrubs so a tank could actually occupy the terrain piece.   How many times has elegant terrain been incapable of properly “holding” a figure or vehicle base?  That type of terrain looks realistic, but doesn’t “work” all that well.

Used a couple of larger mats for wet/swampy/bog ground.  Just sprayed a little dark blue over the battle mat mix.

After the paint had dried, super glued the trees onto the mats, as well as adding some plants and flowers to PUB.

Added a couple of 9-inch sections of bocage using stray balsa and trees without trunks.

Woods Terrain Piece
Bocage With Marshy Ground
Marshy Ground. PUB Flowers Make It So Cute!
Tree Line Ready For Trouble

New Project – Pt 1

Miniatures, Terrain and Buildings, World War II

Crummy weather, bad sports TV,  and an injured leg made for a busy wargame weekend here at The Pine Cone Lodge.

Focus was on my Tanks board and scenery.  As previously discussed, the game comes with a few quality 2-D terrain and building pieces. However, I wanted to go 3-D, but on a budget.  Battle Mats can be expensive at $30+ a throw for a 3×3 foot piece.

Last Thursday, I realized that a mat could be fabricated using thin, plastic, kitchen cutting mats.  I couldn’t find any at the Dollar Store, but Freddies had them at $4.99 for two 12×18 inch mats.   Needed six, so I shelled out the $15 bucks, then bought a can of green textured spray paint for another $5 or so.  Not quite the required 3×3 playing area, but close enough (which should be/is the motto of my wargaming efforts).

I had some other spray paint lying around that could be used, so economically this project made sense……if it didn’t degenerate into another Gunboat fiasco.   While cruising Freddies discovered that Krylon is making camouflage paints – marketed using the Duck Dynasty crew of all things.  Limited colors, but much much cheaper than shelling out $6+ bucks for a small can of green Model Master paint.

By Saturday morning the garage looked and smelled like a Spray Booth.  I started out with some brown “primer plus paint”.  Let that dry for about 2 hours, then started working with gray and green textured paint.  Let that sit, then started random sprays from stray cans of medium and dark green flat modeling paint, along with a few shots of an almost empty can of Krylon khaki.

 

Speaking of Vortexes – Pt 3, or Vortex Subsiding

Aircraft & Vehicles, Miniatures, World War II

The photos at the end of the post sum up my latest gaming efforts.  Finished the initial batch of tanks, and getting deeper and deeper into Advanced Squad Leader (ASL).

Managed to find a helpful article for painting the late war Pz IV and Pz V.  Also picked up a tip here on gloss coating the painted tanks, and then applying a black wash to bring out the camouflaged model’s highlights.

The early war Pz IVs were a piece of cake, with most of the effort involved in dry brushing mud and dirt.  I’m looking forward to this low effort painting for the early-war German and Russian tanks that are on the way.  I really like the Zvezda tanks.  They have some detail and are easy to assemble.  The plastic Flames of War/TANKS are great, but a little more fiddly then initially reported.

Not content to simply play the damn game, I downloaded a bunch of David Graffam’s  paper buildings over at WargameVault.  At a buck each, it’s money well spent, and there’s a free guide to help with assembly.  Never worked with this medium before, so another learning curve.

Speaking of learning curves, the TANKS page over at Boardgamegeek has a tank card template file for download.  Works with the “GIMP” graphics program, which always get me thinking about Pulp Fiction.  Haven’t got that up and working just yet….kinda afraid.

The best part is that the whole project has calmed down and I can start enjoying it rather than spinning around.

 

Speaking of Vortexes – Pt 2, or Dancing on the Head of a Pin

Aircraft & Vehicles, World War II

So much for the master plan cited in my last post.

Had some extra cash, found the Zvezda models cheap, with low shipping, at The War Store.  Couldn’t resist.

Continued my research on how to paint the tanks, and ran into this and this.  With the cheap tank savings, I paid a premium to get the “right” paints.

More research on painting led me to not only the FOW website, but also Warlord Games.  The Warlord site was really helpful with articles on painting the Sherman, and German tanks.

Started painting the Shermans.  There is literally no difference in the colors so hotly debated in my research.  Jeez, what am I trying to do?  All of this shading, washing, dry brushing etc?  Does it really matter?  Nice coat of olive drab, light dry brush, paint the tools, get some dirt on the damn thing and DONE.  Are the “right” paints really going to make a difference?

The right and left sides of my brain are screaming at each other.

Speaking of Vortexes….

Aircraft & Vehicles, Miniatures, World War II

Last post I described the descent into ASL.  Not content to stop there, am in a controlled free-fall into another gaming vortex.

Just like the aircraft fetish described earlier, I have developed one about armor skirmish games using interwar/early WW2 tanks. This has been about 6-12 months in the making.  First thought about ASL, but that was too complicated.  The Infernal Machines module for Landships has interwar armor, but it is also a complicated board game.  The old SPI Kampfpanzer has flaws and can be spendy.  I really wanted miniatures, not cardboard.

Then I started messing around looking at  Shapeways’ 3D models, which come in a variety vehicles and scales, but are not cheap.  Here’s a link to one provider. Lots of possibilities, but I was having trouble finding rules that were fast, fun and in no-way -shape-or-form like Tobruk.

Somehow, someway I found Tanks.  The game is a late war, 15mm,  skirmish-game offshoot of Flames of War (FOW), but uses plastic models that are easy to assemble.  The starter pack is relatively inexpensive, and you can even read download the rules from their website. Also, the scale (more about that later) is compatible with all the FOW stuff that’s out there.  Here’s the Boardgamegeek page with reviews. I’d summarize it as a miniatures, tank skirmish, version of Heroes of Normandie (HON), without some of the hyperbole.

Each tank has a capabilities card, which can be augmented by crew-members with varying skills.  The components are first class, and even include some good quality (again, think HON) 2D terrain pieces.  As earlier mentioned, I found assembly very easy, with plenty of painting guides at the Tanks homepage.   You can even build different versions of each tank.  The Sherman was a little more problematic.  I wound up going over to the FOW website for more , especially when in comes to peripheral items.  The basic instructions are, well, basic.

For earlier tanks it will be a matter of making up my own cards.

My initial purchase included the Starter Set, which has two Shermans and a Panther, as well as a M10 Tank Destroyer and PZ IV. The individual tanks (which come with cards) are about $10.00 each.  The folks at Amazon offered Zvezda PV IVs at $4.95 each, so I grabbed a couple.

I discovered that Zvezda offers a number of early war British, German and Russian tanks and at a lower price than their FOW counterparts.  Fantastic!  Ahhhhhh…..but there’s scale. The Zvezda tanks are 1/100, which is a little over 16mm.  The Tanks models are supposedly 15mm.  OK, not very much difference, right?  Take it from me, the Tanks models are noticeably larger than the Zvezdas, and they should be smaller!

Now to the controlled descent part of the post……..

Step 1:  Finish up Starter Set and the two Tanks models.  Start play in a late-war mode. Gauge enjoyment (it’s not a simulation).

Step 1a:  Download paper building models and/or use HON terrain buildings.  If all of this is fun, go to Step 2.

Step 2:  Buy Zvezda models.  BTW, they are “snap fit”, with few pieces, good fit, and detail enough for me.  Mess around with cards and enjoy France 1940 and Russia 1941 skirmishes.

Step 3:  Shapeways for Japanese tanks (vs. Russians 1939 or Chinese), as well as fictional interwar fights using early British tanks/tankettes.

Hope to finish up assembly/prime/black base coat  of all Step 1 models this weekend.

Geek, Dweeb or Spazz?

Boardgames, Uncategorized

Sucked into the vortex that is Advanced Squad Leader.  Feel like one of the characters in the classic SNL skit when  organizing counters in plastic containers.

The slippery slope began with Starter Kit #1.  The slide accelerated with the decision to play a couple of scenarios from Partisan. Why Partisan?  It’s been sitting on the shelf for about 4 million years, is infantry only, with low counter density.  The deal was closed when I read this review in Boardgamegeek.  It’s my fondness for un/semi-loved games.

The GDSpazz-iness started because the partisan counters aren’t in the Partisan game.  Huh?  Yes, this predecessor to Armies of Oblivion only contains generic axis allies counters.  The partisan counters are in Beyond Valor.  I bought Beyond Valor loose, bagged and without a box about 4 million years ago.  So, started separating Russians to get the Partisans.  Since I was involved in the process, it seemed logical to take care of the German infantry, too.

Now that I have them organized, might as well get some of the play-aide and marker counters organized.   Why play when you can while always the hours fiddling with cardboard?  Croix de Guerre beckons.

Tim’s Take

Boardgames, Sessions,

Tim sent me his (always trenchant) comments.  Here they are:

    • I was curious about how much population is contained in city spaces (14).  In light of this weekend’s games, a good strategy for the US is to focus on pacifying the cities (14 x 2= 28) and keeping the commitment low (you had 22 available troops), as it is hard for the insurgent player to counter.  I had trouble moving guerrillas into the cities and keeping them alive…
    • A good counter to the above strategy is to kill off US troops.  I didn’t do a very good job of hunting them down (and you were good about not putting them in exposed positions).  I had hoped to run some bombardment operations but either my troops were in the wrong place or I had to do something else…
    • Another possible counter is the one I stumbled upon in the last game: the VC wins the hearts and minds of the countryside and just enough of the cities to get the win.
    • I was surprised at how the lack of resources really hampers the insurgent player.  I got a little frustrated during the first game because it seemed just when the NVA was ready to intervene, you would play an event card to either reduce or eliminate their resources.
    • The ARVN and VC were much more active in this weekend’s games than in our earlier games, which were dominated by the US and the NVA.  The VC ability to subvert enemy troops makes them fun to play (you showed admirable forbearance in the face of my constant cries of ‘terror and subvert’….).  The ARVN troops gave me trouble in the second game and played a big role in holding the line until you could bring your airstrikes to bear.
    • I missed a trick when I didn’t move the NVA troops into provinces that supported you.  I know you would have bombed them anyway, but the price would have been higher.
    • Did you know that NVA troops can be used for terror operations?  I didn’t notice that until midway through the second game (there is a lot of nuance in this game).  I wonder if it would be a good idea for the NVA to send in small groups of troops for terror ops and maybe picking off the occasional enemy unit.
    • Did you know that NVA guerrillas can set up in the south?  For some reason, I’d gotten it in my head that they couldn’t.
    • I kept too many units back to defend bases.  I probably should have pushed more units forward into the fray…I think it wouldn’t be a bad idea to put more than one base in area so as to cut down on the numbers of defenders.

 

Maximum Effort

Boardgames, Sessions,

Tim came over the mountain last Saturday for a weekend of wargaming.   Spent Saturday afternoon/evening catching up and turned to on Sunday.  Many Private Reserves and Blue Boars were consumed.

Completed two (yes, two!) games of the two-player version of Fire in the Lake.  Finished up at 2310.  How?  We actually stayed on task (no football, especially if you count The Pro-Bowl), and the Coup Cards popped up sooner rather than later.  Coup Cards determine the end of a turn and also the an accounting for determining victory points.

There were three consistent threads in our talks during the games.  The first was how different the character of each game was, and the accompanying re-playability.  It’s a spendy game, but sure worth it.

The second was how tough it was to play.  Not the rules, how the card flow created the decisions that had to be made under less than ideal operational conditions.  There never seemed to be a direct path to accomplishing mission goals.  Who was that, Wolfe?  “War is an option of difficulties.”

The third focused on how each of the four sides had conflicting goals, and the impact on operations and results.  This is a great four player game.  The problem is finding four players.

US strategy emphasized pacification (with accompanying support), using air strikes and irregulars to attrit communists.  This was accomplished using a minimum of US troops.  ARVN troops would sweep to locate enemy guerrillas, so they could be bombed, with ARVN Rangers raiding provinces to destroy guerrillas.  In both games, the South Vietnamese were used to attain US victory points.

Both communist factions are hampered by a lack of resources.  As a result, their operations featured taxes, but also using terror to reduce support.  Infiltration was another favorite tactic since ARVN troops or police could be eliminated or “flipped”.

Both games followed the historical pattern of the US/ARVN forces controlling cities and VC controlling the countryside.  The first game was a US victory, the second was a tie between  the US and VC.

Great weekend of gaming with a great game.  Here’s photo of the end-game for game number 2.

Entry Level And On A Budget

Aircraft & Vehicles, Miniatures

The Dollar Store is my favorite place to buy fun Christmas Stocking Stuffers.

Had an aerial combat fixation last December.  Don’t know how many hits on Tumbling Dice’s 1/600 aircraft fantasizing about a early WW2 campaign with all the obsolete/obsolescent planes of the late 1930’s.  Then became fixated on Wings of Glory/War for WW1 action.  Lots of time and lots of expense for a questionable solo gaming project.

Back to The Dollar Store….  While rooting around for goodies found (Yes, for $1 each) five piece bags of each of these whacked beauties.

The orange critter does look like a modern jet, while the “Blue Thing” reminded me of SuperCar.

“What the hell, it’s only $2, and it might be fun”.

Well, it was, and while not to everyone’s taste, the results are shown below.

I used an index card to fabricate horizontal and vertical stabilizers for “The Thing”, and then channeled an SS officer who was a Pointillist to come up with the modern jet’s camouflage.  Picked up a tip on the net (forget where) and used light blue with blue Vallejo wash for the canopies.  Works OK.

The next problem is toy-like jet aircraft rules to fit the models.  Cannot be serious with these guys.  Will mess around with that while painting up two more.